Saturday, September 27, 2014

Saturday, September 27 - Day 10

The Civil War at Vicksburg

You know you are in the South when you can get grits with your meal at McDonalds. Really!

Before heading to the battlefield, we went to the Military Museum on the riverfront where a retired Navy officer is an expert on the battle. He showed us a diorama he made of 2500 toy soldiers arranged on a mockup of the battlefield. It really made the battle more understandable when we reached the park.

When I visit historical battlefields I see them with two minds; the mind of a soldier and the mind of a student of history. The valleys where the Union soldiers were are green and lush now but I know they were barren and muddy clay then in May and June 1863. Looking up to the imposing redoubts, I think of the heat and thirst of the soldiers. The steep hills ringing Vicksburg became the best natural defenses the South could have wished for and they had 18 months to make them even better. Looking down from the top of the defenses, one would question why any sane person would think you could fight your way up that hill. When I was a soldier I was always afraid that some medal happy superior officer would order us to “take that hill.” I don't know about the medal happy part but that is exactly what the orders were to the Union infantry, time after time, until thousands were dead or mangled and Grant finally realized that siege and starvation were better weapons. Even then attempts by individual units were made. Charging into massed rifle fire is not my idea of a smart way to fight a war. It took the Civil War officers too long to figure that out. The men had figured it out long before the officers. But as Shelby Foote says it took great courage for the soldiers to make Pickett's Charge at Gettysburg in the face of the Union line but to refuse to charge? Nobody's got that much courage.
As a history student I was thrilled to be on the scene of one of the pivot points of our nation's history. July 4, 1863 was the day that Gen. Pemberton surrendered to Grant and Gen. Lee withdrew the southern forces from Gettysburg. The beginning of the end of the Civil War.

We went to Mass at a very nice church, St. Michael's, concealed in the woods south of town. The priest had a deep Irish accent, hard to understand him and hard to understand why an Irish priest would be there. Hiding out?

Dinner at a local place, Goldie's Trail BBQ. Great bbq pork sandwich for me and bbq beef for Lisa with ice cream for dessert.

We have reservations for two nights in New Orleans beginning tomorrow.









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