Day 5, Sunday, April 29,
Heidelburg and Speyer
You may have noticed a
distinct delay in this blog. I was getting sicker by the day. Could
not breath well, lots of expectoral coughing fits and nasal nonsense
which led to lack of sleep and exhaustion eventually. We had planned
another 5 days in Europe at the conclusion of the boat tour but had
to change plans and come home for medical treatment. We are writing
this on May 5. Blog takes up with Heidelburg:
This day was so crammed with
activity that I could not blog it same day. I will probably be a day
behind from now on.
We left the boat early for
Heidelburg, one of my most memorable cities from a long time ago in a
galaxy far, far away. Heidelburg is most famous for its
university, its castle and the student life. We started with a
walking tour of the old castle high over the city. Begun in the 13th
century, it was in a lot of wars between robber barons and was
destroyed and repaired over the centuries. Still impressive. It
holds
the largest wine barrel which ever held wine. (Bad Durkheim has wine
barrel which has a restaurant
in it and is the largest in the world.) People in these castles must
have had legs of steel from all the steps. The guide pointed out the
large calves of the statues of nobles. She said that in those days
large calves was thought to indicate high sexual performance. Try
this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8LIhHCtqz-M
We then went into the old
city. I found the gasthaus I used to frequent, Zum Roten Oxen, but
it was closed on Sunday afternoons. I still have their beer mug
hanging on my wall. We discovered a wonderful bakery and a place for
lunch. Note about German pastry, it never tastes as sweet as it
looks or we Americans expect. Lots of crème. Went to the large
Catholic church. All the churches are museums of medieval paintings
and sculpture. So many churches that they begin to blur for
description purposes. We had foot long wursts and brotchen and sweet
mustard and beer. Great.
On to Speyer. In spite of
living near there in my past, I had never been there. After Hburg so
many were too tired to walk there so we stalwart few went on the
walking tour. I was too tired also but went anyway. It was a
typical German Sunday afternoon with people strolling in the large
city square, sitting at the many Eis cafes. Speyer is famous for
originating the term Protestant. In 1529 a bunch of free city states
and princes who were Lutheran protested the Edict of Worms which had
banned Lutheranism. We visited another great cathedral.
During our trip on the Rhine,
we encountered 12 locks. Our ship had a hydraulic mechanism to lower
the bridge/wheelhouse in order to pass under the entry to the lock.
The wheelhouse would lower to within a few feet of the top deck.
View of Heidelburg
Heidelburg Castle
largest wine barrel
The noble man with large calves
Zum Roten Ochsen - The Red Ox
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